Sunday, May 23, 2010

Day 6 (Saturday May 22, 2010): Yakima to Bend

We worked on the bike at Owen's Cycle. The staff were extremely helpful and friendly.



With no confidence in my riding abilities the sudden gusts of wind worry me. Normally, I would have stopped at a lookout point overseeing a deep canyon with lots of windmills strewn across the hillside (absolutely incredible view on highway 97 just before crossing into Oregon from Washington) but the lookout point was across the street going downhill on a gravel road... I didn't want to test my luck again. For about 150km in Oregon we are riding with a very strong crosswind which forces us to lean at a 65 degree angle from horizontal to ride in a straight line. All my joints still hurt from the day before so this is the most miserable I have been yet. In Bend, we see police pulling people over about every 5 blocks... I hope the same thing doesn't happen to me in Arizona. =P

Day 5 (Friday May 21, 2010): Colville to Yakima

The road from Colville to Republic is well known to local riders as the best riding in the area. Although the loaded down KLR 650s do not handle particularly well the ride is so much fun that I do not want to stop for pictures. Also, a picture would not properly capture the moment of doing what I love, the beautiful driving weather, and amazing scenery.





In order to get to Coolie Dam we have to go down a fairly steep hill covered in extremely loose round gravel. Nothing exciting happens. When we arrive at Coolie, I am in a fairly foul mood for some reason and while I could appreciate the amazing feat of engineering I definitely was not living in the moment.

Coolie Dam


As we started to ride away from Coolie I gave myself a little pep talk and was back to my usual self within half an hour. At this point we have a cliff on one side and a large lake on the other.

Nothing much happens until the last leg from Othello to Yakima, Washington. The road we are driving on is surrounded by a vast desert plain with substantial hills in the backdrop. It's an extremely lonely place especially with the sun beginning to set. That's when it starts to go pear-shaped. I begin to notice a wobble in the back on of my bike so I start to slow from our usual 130 kph to 100kph. Something causes my back end to fishtail (probably a strong side wind) since there is loose gravel strewn across the road. My bike is directed into the ditch on the righ-thand side which wouldn't have been fun but not that dangerous since it is filled with soft sand. However, as I hit the soft shoulder my back end kicks out again in the other direction but from all my driving courses and time driving a truck in Edson I know that I should still be aiming for the ditch. By this point I am already out of control with no idea what to do since my offroad experience is minimal and my bike is top heavy. I fishtail for a bit and then I get high-sided (I am launched into the air over my bike) onto the road into the other lane of traffic. I remember worrying that the bike would slam into me while I was rolling down the road. As soon as I stop rolling I jump up and run off the road. My nose is bleeding pretty hard and it is streaming into my helmet. It takes me a few seconds to regain enough composure in order to figure out how to get the helmet off. Two cars stop on either side of the wreckage to warn traffic and to see if I am in alright. Disney napkins were used to stop the blood.

Jan was in the lead so it took him a minute to turn his bike around. He breaks open his medical case and passes me some pain medication. I am still painless from the adrenaline so I take a moment to survey the damage. My bike landed on it's left side. The left Givi luggage bag has popped off, and so has the waterproof kayaking bag. The left aluminum luggage rack is cracked at one of the luggage mountings. The left footpeg, shift lever, and clutch lever severely bent. The tachometer, windscreen,  rearview mirror, choke lever, and plastic ferrings are smashed. After bending the clutch lever back into place and getting back in neutral the bike starts up again. These bikes can take a far worse beating than me and continue to run... After bending the luggage rack into place All the bags reattach perfectly and still work (amazing I know, since the bike essentially landed straight onto one of them). As I turn my attention to my injuries I discover a distinct lack of them. My jackets, pants, and gloves are torn in a few places, and there are long scratch marks across my helmet. My watch was torn off my wrist which left a decent bruise, and my right elbow is scraped up from the inside of my jacket. I can only imagine the pain I would be in if I was not in full riding gear. Regardless of gear, my left ankle, both knees, left hip, stomach, ribs, both shoulders, both elbows, both wrists, and my left thumb hurt a fair amount.

Still works!





We had to make it to the next town which would have some parts to fix my bike. The closest was our destination, Yakima, 100km away. Within half an hour we are back on the road... with my confidence shot and my pride in ruins. I must confess that for a few minutes I was thinking of ending the trip... Who would I be if I let something stop me from accomplishing what I set out to do? Tomorrow I will fix the necessary things on the bike to make it rideable for long periods of time. I'm sure everything will buff right out.

Day 4 (Thursday May 20, 2010): Fernie to Colville

Something I forgot to mention yesterday about the trip to Fernie. I had Bon Jovi – Dead or Alive stuck in my head while riding Cowboy Trail on a motorcycle... I worry myself sometimes.

Two things happen after crossing the Canada-US border: The roads get better and the people get grumpier. Highway 22 is amazing.

Kootenay Pass

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Day 3 (Wednesday May 19, 2010): Calgary to Fernie

Unlike the night ride from Edmonton to Calgary, the ride is actually pleasant. While in Crowsnest Pass we get stuck behind a huge train of trucks and cars so we decide to stop to enjoy the view and grab something to eat.

We arrive in Fernie around 8pm. I want to camp and Jan wants to get a hotel. We both completely forgot that hostelling was definitely an option (there are two in town). Since we are riding dual sports we might try to find some dirt biking trails tomorrow.

Day 2 (Tuesday May 18, 2010): Calgary

Dropping the weight and rearranging the weight distribution of the bike is the main concern of today. I quickly realized yesterday that I had trouble maneuvering at higher speeds loaded down. I had a terrible night's sleep caused by a new dosage of Mefloquine (Malaria Medication) so I don't feel like doing anything today and I am anxious without cause. Canadian Pizza Unlimited is delicious.

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Day 1 (Monday May 17, 2010): Edmonton To Calgary

Broken Parts: 1
Lost Parts: 1
Weather conditions: Rain and hail
The number of things I would rather be doing: 0

Shifting pedal broke on my KLR before leaving Edmonton. We were making adjustments to the chain tension by changing the position of the rear wheel and did not tighten the locking nut on the swing arm enough. Luckily, we were able to loktite the remaining bolt until finding a replacement in Calgary.

We left Edmonton at 10pm (much later than scheduled) because there always seemed to be another problem that had to be resolved. Probably not the best plan to travel at night, however,  it was mutually agreed upon that there would always be another reason to delay another day so we might as well get started. Perhaps it was the euphoria of actually embarking on our adventure, or the freedom of the open road but the smiles on our faces couldn't be wider despite the rain and hail.

An extra day will be spent in Calgary working out bike issues that were discovered on our ride down as well as reducing the weight of my gear.

Saturday, May 15, 2010

Pre-departure Considerations

All the worry of the previous months has finally given way to a creeping excitement. There are many things that have yet to be completed before the journey can begin; and more still that will not be completed.


The Yungas Road in Bolivia (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ken-beth/). Soon the photos on this page will be of my making.